Isn’t it fun watching dogs playing with each other? I get a kick out of how Rosy loves leading a chase and is so happy when she is wrestling with her best friends. Mostly, dog play is all done in good fun, but if the dogs get overly excited or if someone starts bullying more than being a buddy, or if two dogs gang up on one, then the play can change and someone winds up getting alarmed or scared or nipped. Kind of like human kids at play – it can get out of hands at times.
Here is something you can do to help it stay all in good fun.
On a regular basis, make it a habit to interrupt the dogs playing, frequently, by calling your dog out of play and taking little pause breaks. If you are with friends, have them call their dogs to them as well. Everyone will take a breather. If you have a puppy, call it over, have it sit or go into a down, praise the pup quietly or give it a high value treat for coming when called or have a short petting session. With your adult dog, reinforce a short down/stay and offer a reward for coming to you so nicely. There has to be something good for her to want to stop playing and come to you, otherwise your dog may just ignore you. Think about if you are in the middle of doing something really fun, someone asks you to stop and come over, you do so and they say, “good” and pat you on the arm. I regularly practice calling Rosy over when she is either walking off leash or when playing with her dog friends. I always pay her a bit of a high value treat – something she really loves – then I let her go back to playing. Rosy has a great recall. Just saying…..
The most important part of this, and why you’ll do it often, is you want to interrupt the play BEFORE it escalates into being overly rough or bullying behavior begins. The point of this technique is not to wait and call the dogs to you in response to unwanted and potentially dangerous behaviors. You are working to prevent this.
If you wait until the behavior occurs, then redirect your dog attention by calling them to you, it does not prevent the bullying from happening in the first place and if you call and reward after they get in trouble, and do this a number of times, it can actually serve to unintentionally reinforce the unwanted behavior. Not what we want. Once they take that mini break – let them go back to their friends. By now, their attention has shifted. They may all investigate “that smell” together, play chase or it will be time for all of you to take a walk down the trail.
How to Create Harmony Between your Dogs and Cats Right from the Start.
From Amy Shojai’s book, here are shortened and paraphrased versions of her TEN COMMANDMENTS of PET DYNAMICS – Things to keep in mind before you choose a new four-legged family member for your household.
The ideal situation if you want to have both cats and dogs in the home, is if they can grow up together as kittens and puppies. This way they go through their socialization periods together and have a greater chance of living together in peace and harmony as adults.
Introductions between the resident pet (either dog or cat) and the new one is much simpler when your resident pet already knows the rules of the house and basic obedience cues. At the least, the ones that already live there, should understand the word NO and the dog, be leash trained.
It is easier to introduce a newcoming cat to a resident dog than the other way around. Dogs tend to be more accepting of newcomers than cats are. Cats prefer a status quo and changes can be perceived as threats.
Resident adult pets, both cats and dogs tend to accept and be more tolerant of younger pups and kittens being added to the family more readily than adult animals. Baby animals are less likely to challenge the resident’s social status than adults.
The more space you have in your house, the less trouble you will have. Dogs and cats are territorial so there needs to be enough room so that they are not living on top of each other. Amy’s “rule of paw” is to have no more pets than there are rooms available in your home. If space is limited, make sure you enrich the environment by providing plenty of hiding places, lookout posts, and numerous toys. Privacy is important to pets. Both dogs and cats need a place they can call their own – a sanctuary where they can retreat and not be bothered by the other pets.
With cat/dog introductions that will take place in the home, both pets should be familiar with your house (the territory,) before introducing them to each other. The new pet should be allowed to explore the home without interference from the resident pet prior to the introductions.
Choosing complementary personalities of the pets, aids in establishing good relationships. The potential for most problems comes with two aggressive individuals especially if there is a big size difference between them. Confidence in a pet is an asset, if it is fearful, this can cause problems. The least conflict comes when your resident pet is outgoing, curious and interested, eager to investigate rather than running to hide.
Along this vein, matching a lap sitter with a playful pet works well because they don’t challenge each other’s preferred state of being. Your energetic pet can encourage the lap-potato to become more active and the more sedentary pet may help calm down the energizer bunny pet.
Introduce the new dog or cat to one resident pet at a time if you have multiple pets.
Pay more attention to your resident pet. The new kitten or puppy is irresistible, but your older beloved friend will feel much more willing to accept the newcomer if they don’t feel they’ve lost your affections.
Patience is the key to successful competability. Don’t expect pets to become fast friends upon the first sniff. It can be hate at first sight and the best you’ll be able to hope for is that they initially will tolerate each other. Most likely, it will take days to weeks before the pets have figured out everybody’s place and established their own furry rules.
Does your dog guard its bones or possessions? You can help fix this.
NutriSource Pet Food’s new freeze dried treats are great to use in the object exchange exercise for teaching your dog how NOT to guard its favorite possessions. But you can use them for training anything to your cat or dog and pets think they are YUMMY.
Win some free bags of the freeze dried treats!!
Write me at email@example.com and let me know what you think of the podcast and what you’d like to hear in the future, and we’ll randomly select three people to win some bags of the dog or cat treats. To see all the different flavors of meats that the treats come in, check out the Pure Vita website.
If you come close to your dog’s food while it is eating, does its body get stiff, or freeze up – does your dog start to growl or snarl? Has she ever snapped or tried to bite? This is what is known as food guarding.
In episode 28 of raising your paws, I talked about what to do to prevent a puppy or a non-guarding adult from starting to do this in the first place.
A dog naturally has a tendency to want to protect its food, (don’t we all) but your pet needs to learn to accept your presence around them and their food for numerous reasons, safety being the first.
But what do you do if your dog already has a food guarding problem?
In this blog, I’ll explain how to start practicing some food bowl exercises, that can change your dog’s response from feeling threatened when you are near their dinner, to acceptance and even happiness that you are there. I’ll also offer some resources for where to go to get further instructions and how to find professional help if you’re dealing with a serious guarding issue.
If you have a dog who food guards around you, the food bowl exercises are different than the ones you would use to prevent the protective behaviors from starting – like in the case of a puppy or non-guarding dog.
If your dog shows any of the behaviors I described in the first paragraph, when you get close to its food, in order to change your dog’s feelings about you being there, keep in mind that you will be practicing the steps listed below, SLOWLY and with CAUTION.
One way to know if you should be trying to work on this yourself (without the help of a dog trainer or professional animal behavior consultant) is to answer this question. Does your dog have a soft mouth? This means that they take treats from you gently and when mouthing you, they do it softly. A soft or hard mouth has to do with bite inhibition – which is something that all dogs learned when they were very young pups – it was part of the socialization process. Good bite inhibition means they will have a soft mouth. This is not easily changed once the dog is an adult.
If your dog does have a hard mouth – taking treats roughly and tends to bite and mouth too hard, or is an unpredictable or explosive guarder or has a history of being a dangerous biter, you will need to use other strategies and will want to consult a professional trainer or animal behavior consultant to help you plan out a course of action. Here is a link to locate a an animal behavior consultant near you.
To begin to teach your dog you are not a threat to its food, here are the three first steps for a dog that DOES NOT have a serious, advanced (biting) guarding problem.
1. Place your dog’s EMPTY food bowl down where you normally feed your dog. When the dog goes over to its bowl to investigate, approach your dog and the bowl. Put a small handful of food in the bowl and back away a number of feet. Wait until the dog finishes eating it and then approach again with the next handful. Repeat this until all that meal is finished. Continue to feed your dog every meal this way until your dog clearly is happy to have you approaching – it could take a number of days or weeks. Then, go on to the next step.
Step 2. Approach your dog and its empty bowl. This time, pick up the bowl, then put a handful of food in it, and put the bowl back down, move away, wait until the dog finishes the food and then repeat this. Approach, pick up bowl, handful of food in, bowl back down, you retreat, dog eats, repeat. You got it. You’ll do this over and over again, feeding your dog this way until again, your dog is happy to have you approach and is fine with you removing the bowl.
Step 3. This will be a combination of the two previous exercises, – approaching and adding food while the bowl is on the ground and then switch it up and alternate with the second step, removing the bowl to add the handfuls one at a time. But now in this step, you’re going to add the next handful of food BEFORE the dog has completely finished the previous portion. This gets your dog used to your hand being close by and bringing more helping while she is actually still eating. Just like the other two steps, keep repeating this until your dog is totally comfortable with you doing this.
If at any time, during the steps, your dog demonstrates any guarding, such as growling, stiffness or freezing up, then slow down, and go back to the previous exercise and proceed more gradually to the one that resulted in you seeing the guarding behaviors.
And, if your dog growls as you approach the bowl in the beginning while he is eating, only go up a certain distance like 3 feet away and while the dog continues to eat, toss a small handful of canned food (stays together) into the dish, then back away, and repeat, gradually closing the distance until you are able to touch the bowl.
For teaching food bowl exercises, DO NOT LET YOUR CHILDREN do this. For all these steps you are only going to have the adult family members doing these exercises. There does come a time when all family members can be brought into the work, but not in the beginning and with some dogs, children are NEVER a good idea for teaching the dog not to guard.
The next steps to reversing food guarding issues and getting your dog comfortable with your presence involves you being able to place your hand on your dog’s bowl the whole time he is eating and then being able to move your hand off of the bowl, in order to add another helping and then replacing your hand on the bowl. BUT this is more challenging for your dog and you’ll want to consult the more detailed descriptions of how to do this in the books below.
The resource for this material is Jean Donaldson’s book, The Culture Clash that writes out in great detail how to work with a food guarding dog. I highly recommend you consult this book for the specific details of all the remaining steps.
Another one of Jean’s books that goes into more detail about what to do with guarding dogs:
Be honest about your feelings about doing this sort of training and your abilities about working with your dog and with the seriousness of your dog’s guarding habits. Caution must be taken – food guarding can be a dangerous habit to break – for you – you don’t want to get bit.
Please consider if it would be best to call in a qualified dog trainer or animal behaviorist. There is no shame in wanting to do the wisest thing for you and your dog by getting additional help to solve the problem. The good news is that there is hope and things to do to remedy the problem. Write me to let me know how its going. firstname.lastname@example.org.
Show Notes for Raising Your Paws Podcast episode 28.
You can help support this podcast by subscribing and telling your friends. To subscribe on iTunes (so you never miss an episode) here is the link.
Here’s what is coming up in the next episode.
November, 20, 2018 – Have you wondered why your dog wants to eat cat poop every chance they get? And how do you stop a dog and cat fight anyway? Certified animal behavior consultant, Amy Shojai, author of ComPETability, Solving Behavior Problems in your CAT-Dog Household, will tell you this and more, when she returns for the rest of our conversation.
Also, if your dog starts to growl at you and resource guard when you want to take something away from him like that half eaten bone, or your shoe or even a paper tissue, there’s a technique to use you’ll want to hear about.
In this week’s Raising Your Paws Podcast, episode 27, talking about post-traumatic stress disorder, I mentioned that psychotherapy, or talk therapy, has not been that successful in helping our combat war veterans that suffer PTSD. This is because of the way our brains are designed. It has to do with what is called, brain laterality. There are two sides, or hemispheres of our brain. Simply put, one side, stores all adversities/traumas in the limbic system which is the emotional seat of the brain. The other side, has the function of understanding language and producing speech. The traumatic memories that keep repeating themselves in victims of PTSD are encoded in the side of the brain that is not responsible for speech. Since speech has no bearing on the side where the trauma is stored, and language does not have any bearing on the limbic system, this is why simply talking about the experiences does not rid a veteran of the flashbacks or night terrors. Talking can assist vets in coming to terms about why they have post tramatic stress, but it is not effective in changing the pictures and memories that are stored in the limbic system. In other terms, words do not access where the trauma is stored in the brain that causes the vet to keep reliving the horrific experiences. There are other techniques used along with talk therapy that does work and medications are used to increase the brains ability for the two sides to better “communicate” with one another. It is however, the non-verbal methods, that seem to be proving highly effective in treating PTSD. Such as participating in art or music or establishing a relationship with a DOG!
There is a program located in Chicago, Illiniois, called War Dogs Making it Home, founded by Elana Morgan and run by Elana and Eva Braverman. Their mission is to help veterans better manage the invisible and lifelong challenges of post-traumatic stress disorder and brain injury (PTSD/TBI) by pairing them with dogs they rescue from shelters and then train to be their service dogs. The vets are saving the dogs lives and the dogs are saving theirs, creating a better life for both.
Here are some photos of the veterans and their dogs. Then listen to the podcast to hear all about how PTSD affects the daily lives of the vets, where the dogs come from, what the dogs learn to do, and how a veteran’s life can be changed dramatically for the better, once they have a dog watching their back.
Your dog’s behavior will make sense to you when you know the job your dog was bred to do. In Episode 26 of the Raising Your Paws podcast, I tell the story of how and why one particular breed was developed to help waterfowl hunters of the Scottish Highlands, back in the mid 19th century. Finding out about any dog’s heritage, will offer insights about how it may act in your home. Very helpful for when its actions leave you mystified and if you are thinking of getting a specific breed, you’ll know what to expect.
The point of this is that if you know the jobs your dog was meant to do, and understand the behaviors and needs that are hardwired into your dog, you can figure out positive ways for them to express them and acceptable outlets for their instinctual behaviors – rather than leaving it to chance and the dog to work it out. It means, for example, that you’re making sure the dog that was bred for long distance running gets to go jogging with you or someone, instead of scratching through your front door. Give that dog that was born to dig, its own good sized sand box so you don’t keep falling and tripping into those darn holes that your terrier keeps making in the backyard. Of course, keep in mind, every dog is an individual and not all members of a breed will have every single characteristic or behavior trait.
To hear the story of this episode’s, featured breed, (one of the most popular breeds worldwide) and what to expect from them, listen below.
In future podcast episodes, we’ll do the same thing for other breeds. If you want me to cover your favorite breed, let me know. Leave me a comment.
In the second part of the podcast episode, I talked about breeds in the working dog category: the Siberian Huskies, Alaskan Malamutes, Alaskan huskies to name a few that are very good at pulling things – sleds to be exact and doing so while running very fast. I spoke to a dog sled musher, Frank Moe about how he got into the sport, how dogs learn to be sled dogs and I asked him to tell a few stories of his most memorable races. You’ll want to hear those!
Here are the resources mentioned in the Raising Your Paws Podcast Episode 26 and the photos of Frank and his dogs I promised during the show.
Resources for the Raising Your Paws podcast episode 26.
We’d love to hear from you, please leave a comment below and always feel free to send me a comment or question about the podcast or the blog at email@example.com.
P.S. I promised that there would be a resume for the breed we talked about in the show: One of the featured dogs that is helping me write it, wants it to be like a modern LinkedIn profile, rather than an old fashioned resume, and so here it is.
Excellent specimen of a dog. Well Rounded. Hunting and swimming expert.
I have an extraordinary disposition. I am cheerful, friendly and good natured with a balanced and gentle temperament and will forgive you if you forget to give me my evening chewy. I’m affectionate as well. Excellent athletic abilities. My stamina is one of my strengths. I will encourage your health by enthusiastically going on walks together. I can play fetch with you for a long time without wearing out too soon. I’m at my top physical condition when I get numerous daily long walks and a good run or two. You’ll bring out the best in me if you spend time playing with me, take me on adventures that let me sniff out the news in the neighborhood and set up playdates with my canine friends. I am very popular with other dogs. Not to brag, but there’s really no one who doesn’t love me, humans, felines, cows, pigs. I make friends with all.
In the market for jobs that will utilize my powers of focus and concentration, like participating in nose work or agility courses.
I’m always a top candidate for work that uses my remarkable skills in locating and retrieving things without damaging them. I am proud of my “soft mouth”. My kind did not earn our name for nothing and it’s obvious, that the beauty of our gold and crème colored fur speaks for itself.
I like strangers as well as my own family, so, not looking for any guard dog positions. I can recommend my buddies, however, the Doberman pinchers and Rottweilers for those jobs.
I’m good at staying in your mind, as I’ll always leave bits of my hair about on the floor, furniture and you, so you don’t miss me if I can’t actually be in the room with you.
Helping hunters by running and jumping over the ground, through the brush and into the water to locate and bring back the birds they shoot down. I never damage the ducks (beyond the minor issue that they are, of course, already dead) but nevertheless, I carry them back gently in my mouth and drop them in front of the hunters.
Offering comfort and delight to people by visiting the ones living together in rather large buildings who have to stay in beds or chairs on wheels.
Sniffing out and locating lost and missing people during search and rescue and recovery missions. Very low fees for work performed – a bit of tug toy, a moment with coveted ball, or payment of beloved, rarely eaten food morsels.
Please….I’m naturally very intelligent – I’m ranked as being in the top 5 smartest dogs when it comes to doing work and following commands. It doesn’t bother me at all to do what you ask of me – I rather like how you act when I please you. Bits of hot dogs are always welcome.
However, I don’t mind going for further education training classes. I like to show off.
Not a bad idea though, to take the youngsters of my kind to puppy and obedience training. They act pretty crazy for a few years – takes them a while to settle down if you don’t show them what’s what.
Picked up after people, when they dropped their socks, underwear, gloves, hats, and toted them around. Since it was a volunteer position, I decided when to give them back.
Will empty closets, bins and boxes of your possessions and redistribute them into other rooms, if you would like – or not.
Skills and Endorsements
Patient. Can sit still and think deep thoughts or roll on the ground while I wait for you. Especially good with human babies and young children, many references available – just ask anyone with a family and one of us.
Trustworthy – You can tell me anything. I’ll never reveal the secrets you whisper into my fur.
Very strong – I can lunge forward in a flash at the sniff or sound of a mouse in the grass and take off right after them if you’re not holding on to my leash too tightly. Don’t worry, I won’t trip over you if you fall to the ground. I know how unsteady humans can be. And the trailing leash doesn’t get in my way.
A wide palate – enjoy a variety of foods. – I love to eat different proteins. I’m partial to the high quality meats in the bags of kibble and cans of NutriSource, Pure Vita and Natural Planet brands of dog food. Some of my favorites are lamb and duck which is easy on my stomach and is delicious.
Can carry house keys, remote controls, newspapers, and much more in my mouth and deliver only slightly soggy at the appropriate times. I surmise these are high value possessions to you and am very responsible with them and would appreciate the opportunity.
Much written about us in the press and featured in many books, movies and TV shows.
Food. Being in water. Watching for things to hunt. Hunting. Chasing and catching squirrels, tiny rodents, and birds. Swimming. Balls. Treats. Being with my humans. Sniffing. Cheese. Did I say, the water? Snuggles and affection. Cleaning up dropped food from off the floor. Exploring. Fetching. Being given things I can retrieve. Having my own blankie or binkie to carry. Italian beef.
Does this happen to you? You are petting your cat, it’s purring away, your blood pressure is dropping, you feel great, your cat is happy, all is bliss – and then whoosh, faster than you can curse, with a sudden snarl, swipe or bite you’ve just been scratched or bitten. What the heck just happened, right? Why does a cat do this – go from ecstasy at your touch to attack mode in what seems like a second? Talk about mixed messages huh?
As long as your cat does not have a medical problem, the sudden behavior change can happen when you go over their tolerance for being petted. It’s known as petting-induced aggression. It occurs when a cat gets too stimulated from continual petting. Most often the cat will start giving warning signs with his body that the stroking that felt so good a minute ago, now feels unpleasant. Since we often don’t recognize the cat’s subtle body language signals that they are no longer feeling good, we miss what the cat is communicating and your feline is left with the only other way to get you to stop petting them – to use their teeth or claws.
Watch for these signals that your cat is reaching his limit for being pet.
Its tail starts thumping or lashing.
Its skin twitches.
Your cat looks back at your hand.
Its ears flatten against its head or are held in airplane position.
Your cat shifts positions.
The cat meows or growls.
Now that you know what to watch for, the best way to avoid triggering petting-induced aggression is to stop petting your cat before you see the warning signals. For example, if you normally pet your cat for about 5 minutes before he gets annoyed, stop after 3 minutes. It makes it a positive experience – leaving your cat wanting more – which you can provide in another short affection session later.
And if the aggression still happens on occasion as you learn your cats tolerance for petting, I know you may feel angry, and want to punish the cat, but remember your cat did not bite to be mean, it felt it had no other option because its attempt to communicate had not worked, so please don’t hit or yell at your cat. Punishing your cat here works against the trust and affection that was your intent from the start.
Today as I write this blog, on Sept. 11, 2018, it is the 17 year anniversary of 9-11. Here at NutriSource Pet Foods, we’re commemorating the day on the Raising Your Paws podcast as well as on this blog. On the podcast you will hear the story of Dan Hughes, co-owner of the detection dog company, Dogs for Defense, who was a former secret service agent for the United States. He had been reporting to work at the World Trade Center on 9-11, 2001, when the towers collapsed. His survival and what he experienced during that event, led him to become a dog handler. Dan shares his story of what happened that day on episode 24.
There were numerous search and rescue dog teams that deployed to New York to help in the rescue and recovery efforts at the World Trade Center, the Pentagon and the Fresh Kills Landfill. During the podcast in segment two, you’ll hear the stories of three of the dogs that worked at ground zero.
Below, are the photos of the dogs talked about in the podcast, Bretagne, Riley and Storm.
Here is a photo of Bretagne and her handler, Denise Corliss. Bretagne had remarkable skills in knowing which firefighters needed her comforting presence or to cry into her fur.
Above is the famous photo of Riley, being transported in a stokes basket over a 60 foot canyon of debris, in order for him and his handler, Chris Selfridge to search what was left of the north tower of the World Trade Center. This was the most practical way to get Riley across the huge void. Then below is Storm, the German Shephard that was never mistaken when indicating that he had found someone.
At 9:38 in the morning of September 11, a third hijacked airliner struck the Pentagon in Washington, DC, killing 184 people.
In addition to the dogs teams that worked at ground zero, many k-9 teams worked the site at the Pentagon. The dogs found the DNA evidence that identified all of the 184 victims as well as the 5 hijackers.
In the photo below, you’ll notice you can barely see where Otto, a certified cadaver search dog, is, in the midst of the massive debris pile at the Pentagon. Dogs were able to move sure-footedly though areas that were nearly impossible for people to navigate. Sonja Heritage, his handler, said that Otto, knew the job he was there to perform and worked well off lead with very little input from her. Otto helped bring closure to many of the victim’s families.
Below is Dan Hughes, the former secret service agent who survived 9-11 and then became a dog handler working with explosive detection dogs in Iraq and Afghanistan.
Dan is also the co-owner of Dogs for Defense, a company that provides working dog services for around the world.
Resources for this episode.
The source of the stories and photos is from the book, “Dog Heroes of September, 11th” by Nona Kilgore Bauer.
The dog on the cover is the golden retriever, Riley.
In the latest episode of Raising Your Paws Podcast, episode 23, I introduced a new segment, (still working on the perfect title for it) that will help you know what jobs certain breeds were designed to do. Every breed was developed to do a job – even if the job was to sit on a person’s lap and look cute. Of course, a great majority of the dogs were bred to help humans, by hunting, retrieving, or herding, etc. These behaviors are instinctual for a dog. They can’t be trained away – yet you can manage some, and provide outlets for your dog “to do their thing” in a positive way.
The point is, if you know what your dog was bred to do, the job it was born to perform, it will, first, explain a lot of their behaviors to you, very valuable when you’re getting frustrated, cursing and scratching your head, wondering, “why does my dog keep doing that” and second, you’ll be able to figure out how to provide constructive outlets for your dog’s built in strengths. Knowing this kind of information is also super helpful when considering getting a particular dog.
I’ll be highlighting different breeds in the podcast episodes – telling you their story – what they were originally bred to do, describe some of their characteristics and the common behaviors you’ll see while living with this type of dog. The latest show, (episode 23) is about the Beagle. You can listen to the podcast here.
Beagles also use their excellent hunting skills to hunt for food of a different sort, at airports. Have you ever heard of the Beagle Brigade?
The Beagle Brigade, sniffs out restricted meats, fruits and vegetables that are brought into the country by travelers. Most people innocently, want to bring home in their luggage, some of the foods they enjoyed while traveling and visiting other places, yet don’t realize that certain foods can hold harmful plant pests and foreign animal diseases that can be introduced into our country’s agriculture and then those insects and germs can wreck havoc in our food supply. This is why these foods are restricted.
Out of all the breeds, beagles have one of the best developed senses of smell of any dog. Because of this, as well as having a good temperament, a non-threatening size, a high food drive, and gentle disposition with the public, beagles and beagle mixes are the preferred breed of dog to do the job at airports, land borders and ports in the United States as well as in a number of other countries around the world. New Zealand, Australia, Canada, Japan and the People’s Republic of China, also employ beagles to keep their country’s agriculture safe.
Here’s a video about the Beagle Brigade.
The United States, Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service, (APHIS) airport inspection program was begun in 1984 at Los Angeles International Airport. The canine members of the Beagle Brigade have either been donated by private owners and breeders, or rescued from animal shelters and all receive training. The dogs are evaluated for appropriateness, such as friendliness and intelligence. The beagles coming from the shelters that are not selected for the program are then placed in adoptive homes and none are returned to animal shelters.
Before the selected beagles can start their specialized work, they have to be trained at the USDA National Detector Dog Training Center in Newnan, Georgia. All Customs Border Patrol (CBP) agriculture canine officers and their canine partners complete the initial 10-13 week CBP Agriculture Specialist Canine Training at the training center. Depending on where the teams are going to be working, the dogs are trained to give either a passive/sitting response or an active response by pawing to indicate the presence of an agricultural product. Regardless of the behavioral response, food (dog treats) and positive praise from their handler is the reward that increases their proficiency.
A beagle’s career with the Beagle Brigade usually lasts between six and ten years. When they retire, they are usually adopted by their handlers (handlers and dogs are paired throughout the beagle’s career). Otherwise, they are placed in adoptive homes.
In Episode 23, I also talked about how a dog’s remarkable sense of smell can make a huge difference in diagnosing disease.
Currently there are two programs going on, one in the U.K. and the other in the U.S. to train dogs to sniff out Parkinson’s disease. This is an illness that is very hard to diagnose early on. If dogs can detect it before doctors can, the health benefits would be tremendous.
Watch this video entitled, Dogs Train to Sniff Out Parkinson’s Disease.
Here are more of the Parkinson Alert Dogs in training, alerting the human, when they find the container that holds the sample with the odor of the disease.
Title: Leash Techniques to Stop Your Lunging, Barking dog & Canines Diagnosing Parkinson’s Disease.
You may be inadvertently causing your dog to react aggressively towards other dogs by how you are handling the leash. In this episode find out why this happens and how to easily correct it.
Knowing the job a particular dog was bred to do, not only explains some of the behaviors, but offers you the key to providing positive outlets for your dog’s instinctive behaviors. Also good information to have when choosing to live with a certain breed. In this episode, I’ll feature one of the most popular breeds in America, the Beagle and you’ll hear about the special role some of them have, working at airports as part of the Beagle Brigade.
Currently, there is no definitive medical screening test for Parkinson’s disease that offers an early diagnosis. Canines, may be the answer for detecting it years before symptoms develop. Hear about the projects that are training dogs to sniff out the disease.
Perhaps you think that dealing with gassy odor is the price you pay for loving your dog – so you wear nose plugs after your dog eats, accept that your guests won’t ever stay very long, spend a lot of money on air fresheners or push your dog out the door, and try not to feel guilty that your pup spends most of its time sitting outside, looking woefully back in through the windows at you and your family.
You do not have to live this way. Passing the occasional gas is fairly normal for both humans and canines, but if it’s excessive, then it needs to be addressed and can be fixed.
Flatulence is a result of gasses that accumulate in the digestive tract and there are a number of reasons why this may happen. Your dog may be swallowing a lot of air by gulping their food, if they eat too quickly. Then your dog either will burp or let it out the other end but usually the gas that comes out this way does not have a strong odor. There can be medical reasons. You will want to rule out intestinal parasites, such as worms. If you suspect your dog could be sick, your Vet will run tests on its stool.
However – the most common cause of a lot of gas that smells bad is your dog’s diet. You may be feeding your dog a food that creates the conditions which make him excessively gassy.
NutriSource pet foods are highly digestible and are known to reduce gas and loose stools – so much that they guarantee it. If your dog has gas and loose stools due to a diet issue and it doesn’t improve after feeding our food, take the food back to the store where you bought it, and you’ll get your money back.
What is it about NutriSource pet foods that helps with gassy odor? Their “Good 4 Life system” ensures good gut health and proper digestion of your dogs meals. The patented, prebiotic (Bio-Mos®) simultaneously promotes good bacteria and eliminates bad bacteria, while the patented, probiotic, (Yea-Sacc®) helps maintain the proper PH balance of bacteria in the gut. Together, these two ingredients ensure a robust gut flora to provide complete digestion and absorption of nutrients. Having your pet’s meal fully digested BEFORE it reaches the colon allows the colon to do what it was designed to do – absorb, rather than become an incubator for undissolved nutrients to ferment and create smelly gasses.
Try a bag of NutriSource, Pure Vita or Natural Planet dog foods and see if it doesn’t take care of the problem. Happy smelling house again!
When you’re out with your dog, don’t you wish at times that both of you could stop in to that cool looking shop you see, or eat at that yummy looking restaurant? There is an online resource where you can find local places that are dog friendly. Ali Jarvis, the founder of Sidewalk Dog Media, and I talk about some of the larger chain stores that allow dogs, and Ali explains why breweries are a perfect place to take your dog.
Next, moving to a new home is exciting yet stressful for you and your pet. In this episode, hear what you can do to help make the transition smoother for your dog so that they don’t think they will be abandoned in the new strange place.
Then, make sure you do these things to ensure your cat will not be totally freaked out and hide for a week after moving into the new home.
Also, just like it is helpful for you to know how many calories you can eat in a day to maintain your weight, this is also true for your pets.
All pet foods list how many calories are in the food, usually listed by the cup. But how does one know how many calories per day to feed a dog or cat?
Hear what Dr. Aldrich, a professor at Kansas State University who teaches about Pet nutrition says about the value of knowing how many calories to feed on episode 21.
It is a complicated equation so there are Pet food calorie calculators on the web that help you figure this out. Try googling more than one to get a better estimate of what is accurate for your cat or dog.
Resources for Raising Your Paws, episode 21.
Title: How To Keep Your Dog at Its Ideal Weight & Improve the Odds That Your Cat Won’t Become a Picky Eater.
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